…makes it very alluring. During the summer, the restaurant also serves under the glass canopy of the adjacent terrace overlooking the Avenue Kleber, too. The menu here is an extravagant…

…kitchen, and around about 7pm on a Sunday, I’d poke my head around the corner every five minutes to see if she was sitting at the kitchen table filling out…

…privilege, and gone wild with desire poule au pot @ pierre moneetta So certain dishes become repositories of memory in all cities, all countries and all cultures. And this was…

…to the Languedob-Roussillon and some Spanish wines, too, since the Pyrénées are after all shared by France and Spain. Vins des Pyrénées isn’t a place you come in search of…

…but the two couples had astute psychic antennas enough to leave us in piece when we began eating this interesting composition of tastes and textures. A little silence also allowed…

…brasserie? Very simply, bistros specialize in simmered dishes and sauces, brasseries are about fast cooking, like grilling or frying, with a shellfish stand out front and perhaps a choucroute garni…

…impressive cooking.   Pavyllon, Carré des Champs-Elysées, avenue Dutuit Metro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau, Tel. (33) 01-53-05-10-10, www.yannick-alleno.com/fr/restaurants-reservation/pavyllon Open daily for lunch and dinner. Lunch menu 68 Euros, Prix-fixe menus 145 Euros, 235…

…means being a bully when it comes to where we eat. Yes, as a Paris food writer I often have a list of new places I want to try that’s…

…lots of bars, cafes and restaurants (Paris-lovers will note that this zone has replaced the superannuated rue de Soif in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, as this once delightful neighborhood has been drained of…

…restaurants is still so good. 1 rue Jules Valles, 11th Arrondissement, Paris, Tel. 01-43-71-49-52. www.cyrillignac.com Open daily. Prix-fixe menu 39 Euros, lunch menus 22 Euros, 27 Euros. View larger map…

…were “des sauvages” (savages) and who regularly left the table for five minutes or longer to then return with white-powder-rimed nostrils. In retrospect, the least she could have done in…

…go back to places I’ve enjoyed to see how they might be evolving, holding up, changing. What this does, in effect, is penalize the careers of established chefs and well-run…

…the name of marketing). Then there’s the fact that I never warmed to designer Bruno Borrione’s decor, which is decidedly feminine–the pink-tinted Italian glass wall-sconces, and, to my American eyes,…

…said seriously. And so they have. Les Déserteurs, 46 rue Trousseau, 11th Arrondissement, Paris; Tel. (33) 01-48-06-95-85 Metro: Ledru Rollin, Faidherbe – Chaligny, or Charonne. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Les-Déserteurs/690121837711787 Closed Sunday and Monday….

…at a neighboring table. So we both loved this dish, which came as a beautifully prepared large dice of grilled autumn vegetables—leeks, celery root, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, Japanese artichokes and…

…Bourse du Commerce. 9 rue Vauvilliers, 1st Arrondissement, Paris, Tel. (33) 01-42-36-32-96. Metro: Les Halles or Louvre-Rivoli. Open daily. Prix-fixe menu 48 Euros. Average a la carte 75 Euros. www.jeanfrancoispiege.com…

…Saint-Georges, 9th Arrondissement, Paris, Tel. (33) 01-48-24-58-94. Metro: Trinite d’Estienne d’Orvre, Notre-Dame-de-Lorette or Le Peletier. Average 20 Euros. www.salsamenteriadiparma.com Also in Cannes: 86 rue Meynadier, Cannes, Tel. (33) 04-93-99-66-67.  …

…Again, both of these dishes were excellent–perfect cooking times, exquisite produce, and delightfully off-center takes on Escoffier style French culinary classicism. I loved my line-caught Breton John Dory with baby…

…Hugo Desnoyer Table d’Hotes, 28 rue du Docteur-Blanche, 16h, Tel. 01-46-47-83-00. Metro; Jasmin or Ranelagh. Average a la carte 50 Euros. Lunch only. Closed Sunday and Monday. www.hugodesnoyer.com Reservations essential….

…think very long. As surely as they require supplies of clean water and electricity, along with police forces, street cleaners, and green spaces, all great cities need a regularly renewed…