Racines, Paris | A Delightful Bistrot a Vins Gets a New Chef, B+

February 8, 2018

In taking over the kitchen at Racines, a charming bistrots a vins ( a bistro that specializes in wines) in the Passage des Panoramas, talented chef Simone Tondo returns to…

A L’Epi d’Or, Paris | An Heirloom Bistro’s Brilliant Revival, B+

February 6, 2020

…pâté en croûte in Paris, which was my lucky spouse’s starter. It’s worth noting that this dish is always available, too, as one of “Les Incontournables,” or those dishes that…

Why I Miss American Supermarkets

November 2, 2020

…of course, is more nuanced, since there’s spectacularly good food in France, but there’s also some pretty awful stuff around, too, just like the United States. Other things you don’t…

Le Bon Georges, Paris | My Pretty Much Perfect Neighborhood Bistro in the 9th Arrondissement, B+

June 25, 2014

…home, I’ve somewhat improbably become something of a regular at Le Bon Georges, a place I’ve now been over a dozen times since it opened this past winter. Understandably, he…

Auberge Bressane, Paris–A Living Archive of the Great Tastes of Gaul, B+

March 4, 2015

…me with a pulse-quickening desire to eat there again. And besides, I’d already allowed the work of choosing a restaurant for us, complicated by the fact that many places are…

Clover Grill, Paris | Les Halles Gets a Great New Grill, B+

December 5, 2016

…the décor here is an expression of their assured and winningly witty good taste. The Pièges play with some tongue-in-check retro references to the decors once commonly found in French…

Restaurant Eels, Paris | A Solidly Talented Table in the 10th Arrondissement, A-/B+

September 28, 2017

…last detail has been thought through, what from the wood-panelled zinc-topped service bar where Ferrand composes his dishes before they’re served, to the clever black-steel glass racks strategically located around

Le Restaurant du Palais-Royal, Paris | A Perennially Romantic Restaurant Gets a Great New Chef, B+

July 15, 2015

…place like Le Restaurant du Palais-Royal, which occupies a corner of the Palais Royal and possesses a small seasonal terrace which overlooks not only the magnificent arcades and facades of…

LA COUPOLE, Paris–In Remembrance of Things Long Past, C

March 6, 2014

…I explained that we once shared a collective brasserie reflex, since Sundays could be melancholic, and so we’d often round ourselves up for a dinner round robin style, which was…

MYSTERY CUISINE, Good Food with an Amusing Side of Theater, B+; ROSSI & CO, A Nice Neapolitan, B

July 21, 2010

…circumstances. Through the meal, Desrousseaux de Vandières poured a suite of excellent wines to suit each course and his service was velvet but without being coy. So would I go back? I’d…

Fulgurances, Paris |A Consistently Delicious Showcase for New Gastronomic Talent, A-/B+

July 7, 2016

…Alexandre Dumas, 11th Arrondissement, Paris, tel. (33) 9-81-09-33-32, Metro: Rue des Boulets, Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday, Closed Sunday-Tuesday, 19, 22€ lunch menus, 44€ dinner menu, www.fulgrances*]}*.com

Brasserie Bellanger, Paris | Good Cheap Gallic Grub, B

July 1, 2019

…Charolais beef to them in Paris and a fisherman in Ouistreham who delivers direct three times a week. Their poultry comes from the Bresse region, most of their vegetables are…

Alléno Paris (formerly Ledoyen) – Chef Yannick Alléno’s Comeback is a Quiet Triumph, and That’s a Good Thing, A-

November 19, 2014

…offers an intriguing new equilibrium between technicity and sensuality, with a subtle but profound fascination with the transformative power of sauces and an exhilarating but understated commitment to both healthy…

Kult, Paris | Good Casual Dining in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, B

March 16, 2016

Comme des Garcons, mais pourquoi pas? My gastronomic lessons in the neighborhood were of less importance, since even in 1986, Saint-Germain-des-Prés wasn’t exactly heaving with good bistros aside from the…

MY SECRET AMERICAN CRAVINGS; TORRISI, NYC, B

October 22, 2010

…there was no logical liaison between this dish and the others. Similarly, the twee-ly named “Pommes aux Pommes,” a tart of rosti potatoes topped with apple slices was one of…

Mensae, Paris | Belleville Goes Gastro, B+

November 30, 2015

…and Les Boucheries Nivernaises for meat, and Lyon’s La Mère Richard for cheeses (insofar as this last supplier is concerned, I detect that quality has been slipping since the business…

Frenchie to Go | Summertime, and the Eating is Easy, B

August 1, 2015

…up missing our two favorite Saturday morning markets–the organic one in Les Batignolles, which is officially known as the Marché Biologique des Batignolles and is located on the boulevard des

La Marée Jeanne | A Good Catch for Seafood Lovers in Les Halles, B+

April 7, 2015

…on dates, a table of men in dark suits, and some singles reading their iPads while they dined at the bar. So a love of seafood unites the tribes of…

Daroco, Paris | Honest Italian Cooking and a Good Time – B-

July 17, 2016

Swordfish carpaccio with zucchini, raspberries and dill   Almost no adjective in a restaurant review makes me warier than the word ‘fun,’ because overtly ‘good-times’ type places often don’t take…

HUGO DESNOYER, Paris: The World’s Best Butcher

April 16, 2011

…but hey, Desnoyer supplies L’Arpege, Pierre Gagnaire, and L’Astrance, restaurants I love, but can’t afford to go to very often (he also supplies Les Fines Gueles and Le Verre Volee,…