LA GRENOUILLERE–A Superb Gourmet Weekend Destination, A-

With rain streaking across the window next to my desk this Saturday afternoon, my heart goes out to all of those people who are on vacation and cooped up in seaside hotel rooms staring out at wet beaches. The poor weather in Paris for the last month has a lot of people second-guessing their vacation plans, too, but for anyone looking for a terrific rain-or-shine weekend getaway, I would highly recommend La Grenouillere, which is located in La Madeleine-sour-Montreuil in the Pas-de-Calais.

Brilliant young chef Alexandre Gauthier has just opened eight striking new ‘huttes,’ or cabins, designed by architect Patrick Bouchain, and as long as you pack a good book or two, you’ll have a terrific time here, since these a cozy, all black roosts that come with iPod dock, televisions, coolers stocked with Ch’Ti beer, apple juice and mineral water, and soaking tubs set next to picture windows that overlook the surrounding meadows.

Avocado and monkfish in seawater

The main reason you’ll be here, though, is to eat, since Gauthier is one of the top five young chefs working in France today. Stopping by for dinner the other night, I had an astonishingly good and absolutely fascinating meal in this three century old auberge’s striking new dining room. Dinner began with sea bass carpaccio interleaved with razor-fine slices of nectarine, and continued with a suite of superb dishes, among them a cube of avocado and monkfish in a shallow pool of sea water, green pea gnocci with pea shoots, frog’s legs meuniere, roasted lobster served in smoldering boughs of juniper, and rare beef with salicorne (seaweed) and a nest of grated potatoes in a gentle garlic cream. I loved the grande finale of this meal, too, which occurred when a beautiful young waitress arrived and threw of a transparent sugar globe full of sorrel mousse into plate. Both of us laughed, and the refreshingly astringent mousse was a brilliant conclusion to this meal.

Green pea gnocci with pea shoots

In addition to his 110 Euro eleven-course tasting menu, Gauthier also offers eight dishes for 85 Euros and an a la carte menu. And if you decide you want something tamer, Gauthier also runs an excellent rotisserie restaurant, Froggy’s Tavern, five minutes away in the charming town of Montreuil.

La Grenouillère, La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, Tel. 011-33-3-21-06-07-22, Closed March, 20 December-4 February, Tuesday and Wednesday except July-August, www.lagrenouillere.fr