Comments on: THE BEEF CLUB–A Mis-Steak in Les Halles, C-

By: Donald Edwards

Donald Edwards — Wed, 16 May 2012 06:28:36 +0000

Now I read this with some curiosity as I know the Hawksmoor restaurants very well, with whom I believe the ECC folk have partnered somewhat. The Ginger Pig beef is very excellent, though I take your point about it not necessarily being better than something French.
What confuses me is the beef burger, as opposed to hamburger, both usages are found in the UK, but more often than not beef is used as it's prefaced by something to do with provenance.

By: Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:21:28 +0000

Joseph, So glad we share an affection for La Rotonde, which is a precious place for the very reasons that it remains independent and hasn't been saddled up with a major marketing saddle on its back. Gilles Verot is one of the best charcutier in Paris right now--you can also find his wares at Yannick Alleno's great new Terroir Parisien. What the Terrine du Moment might be when you order is hard to say, since the rough translation here is 'Terrine of the Day.' One way or another, Verot's terrines--pork, veal, chicken, etc., are all superb, so you can order them fearlessly. All best, Alec

By: Joseph

Joseph — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:13:52 +0000

Alec, So much for the Beef Club! On the other hand La Rotonde is one of my favorite places while in Paris on frequent business trips. I stay at a hotel nearby and La Rotonde has become my neighborhood go to place for early morning breakfast and late night dinners. Unfortunately, it is difficult for me to convince my Parisian colleagues and friends that the food is very good and the dining experience above average. La Rotonde, and places like it (are there any others left with good food?) are (happily existing) at the opposite end of the "fooding" snobbery that is polluting the Parisian landscape. My hope is that La Rotonde remains independent and does not come under the gaze of the house of Costes, the Flo people or other similar influences. Finally, what might be found in a Terrine du moment de Gilles Vérot Best, Joseph

By: Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 13:47:41 +0000

Dear Pot au Feu,

1) I don't actually know if all of the beef served at Le Severo comes from France, but most of it does come from Hugo Desnoyer, and since I shop there often, I know his beef is French.

2) I'm puzzled by your conclusion that I went to this restaurant with an a priori. Since I was looking forward to seeing my friends Dorie, Michael and Christian, and it turned out to be an expensive meal, I'd have much preferred that the food, atmosphere and service be good at the Beef Club. Aside from a life-long passion for really good food, I also love going to restaurants for the people-watching, atmosphere, and what they reveal about the chef and the city and country in which he or she is cooking.

Best, Alec

By: potaufeu

potaufeu — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 11:47:46 +0000

"the beef served at The Beef Club comes from farmer Tim Wilson's farm in Yorkshire (yeah, yeah, yeah, it's grass-fed and the breeds are different from what you find in France, but so what--give me Bazas beef or Charolais or Blonde d'Aquitaine any day)"

1) Are you sure all the beef served in le severo comes from France?lt;br/>2) Reading the article, I've asked myself why did you even go (ok, it's your job....but it seemed to me that no matter what, your opinion about the place was't going to be good)

By: Alec Lobrano

Alec Lobrano — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 09:32:59 +0000

No worries, Chrisos--your table didn't ruffle any feathers, it's just that this dining room is small and oddly configured. I agree that the beef at The Beef Club is good, but still don't like the concept, the prices--starters are much too expensive, the wine list, and the desserts. And I am apprehensive about the impact of 'Anglo-Saxon' burger and steakhouse culture on the Paris restaurant scene. Cheers, Alec

By: Chrisos

Chrisos — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 06:10:48 +0000

Hello Alec,

I was one of the French bloggers, sorry if our large table bothered other people. We were initially split into two tables, and asked for a re-union when we arrived.
The tile-covered walls make the place quite noisy.
Service was not fast (already mentioned by Adrian Moore), but we found them quite patient, and nice, as it is rare in fashionable and newly opened places in Paris to find such friendly staff.
I have not tried the burger, but my côte de boeuf was very good. Sure, it is not cheap, but this could be explained by the sourcing of the meat+ Le Bourdonnec price premium.
It is true that there are other places in Paris with very good (but different) meat and steaks (Severo, Griffonnier, Gourmet des Ternes, Charbon Rouge), but this Beef Club is very central.
The wine list needs to be improved: choice is average and coefficients are not acceptable (4-6x)

By: Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 07:42:49 +0000

Many thanks, Brad, and yes indeed, Paris is more than worth filling your piggy bank for, especially since so many excellent new places have opened here recently. Your comment on mediocre Italian chain restaurants in wonderful Philadelphia struck a nerve, too since every time I return to visit the small town in Connecticut where I grew up, I am again forced into wonderment about why all of the old-fashioned New England farm stands that once existed there were forced out of business to be replaced by fake Disney-esque versions of same. I guess some people actually prefer plastic to wood. Best, Alec

By: Brad Wilson

Brad Wilson — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 02:49:56 +0000

Alex, one of the best food essays I've seen in a long while. I save my pennies to come to Paris every other year to experience just the kind of FRENCH cooking you are such a fan of, and places like Beef Club depress me in the same way when I see soulless chain Italian restaurants prospering in my hometown of Philadelphia where fine local Italian joints are everywhere ... sigh. But the fact that you and John Talbott both had lamb to rave about in Paris in the last week means all is not lost.

By: Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano — Fri, 20 Apr 2012 20:50:25 +0000

Christopher, you make several good points in your comment, most of which would seem to support my befuddlement with why the hamburger at The Beef Club in called a 'Beef Burger." Having lived in London twice for long periods of time, I know that beef burgers are pretty ghastly--just order one at any Little Chef if you're in doubt, and this is why I don't get the idea of calling them by this name in Paris. Seems to me that the only possible reason is as a misconstrued Gallic feint at Anglo poshness. And in the U.S. no one actually ever thinks that hamburgers are made of ham, or at least as far as I know and hope, but rather understand that this preparation of chopped beef arrived in the U.S. with German immigrants. Best, Alec